I've never worked with metal before and this whole building experience is new to me. As such, drilling the counterbalance stainless steel pipe proved to be a challenge. I had read Marty's (http://martysrv12.blogspot.com/search?updated-max=2008-09-28T19%3A46%3A00-05%3A00&max-results=7) blog as well as others (e.g. Jerry (http://jerryg150rv12.blogspot.com/), but still had trouble getting it right. Match-drilling the most outboard and inboard holes went well, which was about the last thing over the next few days that did! On page 18-03 the plans (step 5) call for you to match-drill through the skins into the stainless-steel. I knew from reading Marty's and Jerry's blogs that this could likely result in elongated holes in the skin. I decided to only drill long enough to mark the spot, disassemble and finish in the drillpress. This didn't work too well, due more to my learning curve I think than to the actual method. 2nd attempt after rotation of the pipe and starting over, I marked the spots needing to be drilled with my trusty ole sharpie and then disassembled the pipe from the skin, going to the drill press to drill the holes. I started with the #40 size with the notion to enlarge to a #30. The challenge was to drill the hole without having the bit drift, which it did. Not precise enough. Wising up a bit, I then went for the 3rd attempt, but started with significant punch marks to guide the drill. Success! You can bet the right flaperon went better.
From there to p. 18-04 where you are called to complete the Actuation brackets and match-drill them and the pivot brackets to the flaperon spar. I found it helpful to clamp the 1207 to the spar AND use a #10 bolt to attach to the inboard nose rib which was cleoed to the spar. On the 1207 actuation bracket, the most outboard holes are up tight against the perpendicular part of the barket and I anticipate a challenge in squeezing the rivet, but will go there when I get there (how's that for deep!).
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